Carner Barcelona Black Calamus

Opens with a sharp, resinous snap of frankincense cut through with black pepper — there's a deliberate roughness here, something almost medicinal before it softens. As it settles, labdanum and oud take over, earthy and slightly animalic, grounded by dry wood that keeps things from tipping too sweet. The vanilla in the dry-down is restrained, rounding the edges without going gourmand. Projection is moderate to intimate; it wears close to skin after the first hour, leaving a woody, smoky trail. — Best in cold weather, evenings, for someone who wants a serious dark oriental without apology.